• CHIEF OF STAFF

    Suzanne Stroh is on the team at vChief.

  • AFFILIATIONS

    Founder and CEO, Legion Group Arts, an international arts and entertainment group. The Legion family of companies is based in Washington, DC. with offices in London and Athens. The Legion Foundation, based in Zurich, meets the needs of Greek children and unaccompanied minor refugees living in Greece.

  • COORDINATES

    Suzanne hails from Michigan, where her family brewed Stroh’s beer for five generations. She lives with her family in the Virginia countryside.

  • Interview with Dan Savage

    Author, activist and “Savage Love” advice columnist chats with Suzanne in the January 2016 issue of Gay & Lesbian Review

    Read Interview

  • Interview with Christina Schlesinger

    Code name Romaine Brooks, Guerrilla Girl artist Christina Schlesinger has never exhibited her Peter Paintings. Until now.

    Learn More

  • More Laurels!

    In May SCOTCH VERDICT picked up its eighth international award in the south of France.
    SCOTCH VERDICT Wins St. Tropez 2015

    Learn More

  • New Laurels!

    SCOTCH VERDICT won the Jury Prize for best screenplay at the NOVA Film Festival in April, 2015.
    NOVA: Jury Award Winner | SCOTCH VERDICT

    Learn More

NAZI SCIENTIST and the Household Paradox

May 27

swearingtoflagEvery Memorial Day reminds me of our big household paradox. My spouse and film production partner, Amy Gerber, is only three years younger than I am, and yet we are a generation apart. How about that for a slice of “This American Life”?

So what’s in a generation?

Social scientists and demographers define a generation as “a group of people living together at the same time” and measure it by its duration—20 to 22 years—when children grow up and have children of their own. By that definition, Amy and I appear to be marching in step, although we had our first child well into our thirties.

Recently, though, after working many years on a film about World War II and the Cold War, we’ve discovered that age isn’t the biggest factor shaping the identity of our generation. Nor are the defining moments we share together, especially in wartime. Sure, those are powerful forces. We acknowledge them this weekend, honoring the American war dead from present-day armed conflicts, honoring all our forebears who ever fought and died in wars leaving families behind, and grieving them in the same breath.

As it turns out, the defining moments that shaped our parents’ generation have just as much (if not more) to do with how we fit into the world around us. Why? Because they stamped our families indelibly, and we grew up with that imprinting. Every generation is just as much a collection of families, by definition, as it is a collection of individuals. What else, besides family, travels with us from cradle to grave?

As Amy and I both know, when a parent experiences war firsthand and relives it with a young child, the child makes sense of a chaotic, frightening and often senseless world by studying and learning how the parent coped with that hardship. These are the lessons the child never unlearns. These are the stories the child never forgets. This is the worldview the child will carry into adulthood.

These are things Amy and I both learned, growing up in households where both our fathers had vivid boyhood memories of starvation and war….only they were boys in different eras, and they were on opposite sides of the same war.

Two dads on opposite sides

My father remembered the Depression. He served in the U.S. Navy during World War II, fighting against Nazi perpetrators. Amy’s father was held hostage in a German POW camp as a boy of six, the son of a Nazi scientist watching Allied “liberators” become perpetrators overnight in the hunt for German assets to be plundered. My father said he nearly died of boredom during his mostly uneventful tour of duty in the Pacific. Amy’s father nearly died of starvation. World War II made a man out of my father. It robbed my father-in-law of his childhood. He had children early; my father waited until he was 40 to have his first child.

What shapes a worldview?

My father was proud of winning a war of battles that he framed as a struggle of freedom against tyranny. He measured himself against his distant grandfather John Hart, who signed the Declaration on July 4, 1776, escaped British occupation of his farm, and lost everything he owned in the fight for independence. To win was to pool common resources, to form the best organization, and to engage the enemy out in the open. Like Cincinnatus, my father went back to his farm and his brewing business after the war, and paid little attention to its aftermath.

When Amy’s grandfather was taken away by US Army intelligence officers in Operation Paperclip, her father saw with his own eyes that the real winner of that war had yet to be declared in 1945. Whoever ended up with the most technology would be the true victor. To win was to sequester resources, to steal secrets and keep them, to work behind closed doors, and to engage the enemy in the shadows. The boy’s first challenge was simply to survive captivity. He was proud of that—proud of his wartime role as an asset to be plundered for the benefit of his new country, the US. He measured himself against his distant grandfather, Goethe, and went on to play his own part in the family tradition that had spawned generations of scientists in his paternal line.

These men had completely different worldviews. We, their daughters, discovered them by asking, “Dad, what are you proudest of? What did you risk in the war? What would you be willing to risk in the future, and why?” As a result of those intimate conversations and early imprinting, Amy and I will always hail from different generations.

Und trübte: our new documentary

The story of what Amy’s German grandfather did in the war; how he was smuggled into the US to continue his top-secret physics work in New Jersey even though he was convicted as a Class II war crimes offender back in Germany; and why her dad ended up in captivity with his mother and siblings, is told in Amy’s fearless documentary film, MY GRANDFATHER WAS A NAZI SCIENTIST: Opa, von Braun and Operation Paperclip, which we produced together. (Amy’s father, a physicist like his father before him, has now spent a lifetime working for the US government as an American citizen.)

We decided to release the film this weekend on DVD because it seemed like the perfect time to intrigue our core audience, made up of the World War II buffs and the Cold War aficionados among the so-called “Greatest Generation.” War was the defining event in the lives of our fathers born on opposite sides, men who raised American daughters the same age of different generations. As parents, Amy and I will spend the rest of our lives bridging that gap to establish our own identity as a German-American family that World War II brought together. Maybe that’s why Amy dedicated her film to our daughter.

Buy the DVD now on Amazon. Follow events on Facebook. Have a great holiday weekend.

 

Why POSH if it’s TABOU?

Oct 18

treeWe all have our favorite French words to use in bed, and POSH wasn’t one of mine.

I was sitting around bullshitting with my pal, Wendy Pepper, like I always do. She was in her studio working on a new dress, reading an eBook, following a news feed, listening to a podcast, checking her email, touching base with a client on the phone, basically being creative. Then she turned to me.

“How are you going to promote your eBooks?”

I was like, oh.

One by one she switched off all other channels. I love it when I get the full intellectual benefit of eyes-on-me attention from my high octane friends. While I was still sitting there without a clue, Wendy leaned closer and said, “I AM your target reader. I read.”

You can imagine the roaring silence that accompanied this shocking American confession.

“Yes, read. As in books. Blogs, you name it. Yes, eBooks. And I would pay money for them. I’m even into the literary blogs. I hunger to know how the writer of today makes sense of his world,” said Wendy, very much in italics. She likes to tease me. “So how are you going to get my attention?”

Clearly by being a total screw-up, I realized. But instead I ventured out by stating the obvious. “Well in eBooks you don’t have the object. You have the machine, but not the tactile object, the talisman that will always harken to the book.”

How to Marry Your Children, Or Great Lines from TABOU

Oct 18

Forget what they tell you. Writing fiction is marrying your children. And vice versa.

And as the troubadour Jackson Browne put it so elegantly, “to love and get away before the walls have arisen, you’ve got to be free.”

But when your idea of a first novel is a five-part epic saga, you’d have to be me.

So I have some, shall we say, special experience in this area.

In the way of most marriages, TABOU and I had been together quite a long time before I really began to see my characters as living breathing beings, living lives on their own terms.

Beginning writers dream of This Magic Moment and wonder when it’s going to happen. Will they be driving through the Bridges of Madison County, when like a thunderbolt their characters descend like Riders on the Storm? And suddenly the novel they’ve been slaving over is Raptured, transported heavenward straight to Simon & Schuster?

That never happened to me. I think it’s because I was a helicopter parent, hovering over my children at the keyboard every night, pregnant with more, then listening to talk radio shows every morning where famous authors described the fiction process like the birthing process.

Why Five Tabou Books?

Oct 20

tabou

Aristotle gave Hollywood the three act structure. You know: a story with a beginning, a middle and an end. Boy meets girl, boy loses girl, boy gets girl back (and puts on a show!). Wants, acts, gets.

Sure, it works.
Yawn.

How many of you will admit how boring and predictable this has become?

Do you pay ten bucks for a movie, and then realize you know exactly what’s going to happen in the next scene­every scene?

Do you read a book review or thumb through a novel and say to yourself, “haven’t I read this story before?”

And especially regarding queer fiction, can you tell the story backwards and forwards of the young outsider coming of age, yearning to belong but determined to live life on his or her own terms?

(I read a witty column about this recently, “The cookie cutter novel,” written in July 2006 by Charlie Anders, a San Francisco blogger. You can find it here, on Other magazine’s web site: http://othermag.org/blog/?p=54 .)

As a reader and a writer with broader concerns, I wanted something deeper for Tabou. Something more like music, something that would resonate long after the performance is over. I was not interested in recording a “slice of life.” That is achieved a hundred times every year: check your local bookstore. I was not interested in rendering characters that “people can identify with,” as if that is the limit of good writing.

I was interested, as one of my early readers pointed out, in creating a new world, “Rewriting a new history the way we need to make it, going forward.” I was interested in a new mythology. A saga in the best sense, the Scandinavian sense, of the word (hold the cheese, please). An epic tale.

The five act structure is a much better fit for a story told over four generations, with one lead character on a mission, whose fate turns on the choices and actions of four other women.

You know the five act structure by heart if you’ve ever seen “The Wizard of Oz.” There’s the exposition (Act 1). (Dorothy leads us to meet the cast of characters on the farm in Kansas, where Toto may be euthanized “shudder” by Mrs. Gulch.) After setting the scene and proving all the background we need to understand the themes, we watch the rising action in Act 2 (Dorothy?s Odyssey, her journey back home through the land of Oz) until it reaches a turning point in Act 3 (where Dorothy and her friends must defend against the Wicked Witch). In the falling action, plans unravel and assumptions are tested when the disillusioned hero (Dorothy and her friends) has to stay on track, even though prospects are bleak. In Act 5, the weary hero often receives help in the eleventh hour (like Dorothy being helped by Glinda the Good Witch) to resolve conflicts and pave the way for a happy or tragic ending, depending on what kind of story it is.

Each of the Tabou books has its own five act structure, where the climax occurs on one big night, which becomes a turning point in Jocelyn’s Odyssey.

So when thinking about Tabou in terms of its five book architecture, remember the five act dramatic structure in use for centuries since Homer and made famous by a guy who never made it big in Hollywood, Gustav Freytag:

EXPOSITION

Book One

“Patience”

RISING ACTION

Book Two

“Jocelyn”

CLIMAX AND TURNING POINT

Book Three

“Sylvie”

FALLING ACTION

Book Four

“Aurore”

DENOUEMENT

Book Five

“Valerie”

Just Barely Being a Lesbian: My Social Introduction to Peggy Peabody

May 24
from OurChart.com | May-2007

My favorite character on The L Word is Peggy Peabody, whose name has been mispronounced for four seasons. Which says more about how we lesbians feel about elites than anything else I can think of.

If you let Peggy make love to you in 1974, her Year of Being a Lesbian; if you lunched with Peggy and Brooke Astor at Mortimer’s in the 1980s and strategized about New York City homelessness; if you blushed when your hand brushed against hers at a sustainable energy conference in the 1990s; or if you found yourself at the same LACMA or MOMA board meeting the other day, you would have texted me right away.

JANE WISH TO MAKE VITAL INTRODUCTION PLEASE CALL PRIVATE LINE TERRIBLY URGENT.

You’re so modern these days. They used to call it the “petit bleu,” the little blue envelope you put on a valet’s silver salver. It contained the note which a friend had written to introduce you, endorse you, to somebody new. But times have changed, even for you.

Of course I’d call you right back.

“Jane,” you’d say. “I’m fifty strides from the subway.” Ta-tock-ta-tock-ta-tock. “Are you still married?”

“Are you still taking your Alzheimer’s meds?”

“Don’t tease. Who can remember to pee these days, Christ! Are you still married?”

“What self-respecting lesbian my age who ever got married in the first place and still has a positive net worth isn’t still married? We’re the marrying kind,” I’d remind you.

“Damn. Because I just met somebody.”

“And?”

“Somebody for you, dear, not for me. Since you’re married.”

You’ve never made very much sense about that, and I’ve always wondered when your own banner year, your Year of Being a Lesbian, actually took place. But I humor you, knowing that our passionate connection will be brief.

“Who is she?”

“She’s Peggy Peebidee. Great Lesbian Heiresses 101. Hello!”

“I’m still here.”

“Of course you’re still there. I haven’t gone anywhere. The point is, get Peebidee. She’s fabulous.”

“Age?”

“Of a certain age, yes. She dates down. You date up.”

“Vitals?”

“Just out of the body shop. Looks great. All systems go go go.”

“Test driven?”

“As I told you, no. Jane, behave. So naughty.”

“So where did you meet her again?”

“In that TV show. I turned up at a board meeting, I mean I even did my reading for this one, and damned if it hadn’t been turned into a film shoot!”

“What? I thought that only happens on Project Runway.”

“I kid you not. So I was going through the agenda, and she corrected my grammar! That was when I knew she was for you.”

“Was that before or after she made love to you in the Ladies? Or was it the Green Room?”

“Jane! Really. I do not discus my sex life on the subway. I have trouble enough working out how to use the damn subway. But you insist, dear, so I do. If you don’t give this woman a Lifetime Achievement Award then I really have grave doubts about the future of your species. Peebidee, Peggy Peebidee, do you have a pencil?”
I roll my eyes. “I’ve written it down. P-E-A-B-O-D-Y. Is that Boston?”

“Or Bar Harbor. You should check that. Publishing, metals and mining, three-way Standard Oil heiress, some old goat ancestor funded all the libraries in the United States, her father was a war hero of the 10th Mountain Division who started Aspen, she sleeps three hours a night trying to cure AIDS and stop homelessness and hate crimes. Let’s see. She built senior housing for gays in L.A., collects Etruscan pottery and just had her painting stolen from a Dutch museum, very chic in the art world. She’s a published poet of blush-factor erotica, personal friend of Deneuve Allende and DeNiro, rumors over rift with Sontag, active in Darfur, serviceable Spanish and fluent French, Cordon Bleu de Paris, excellent grammar.”

“Photographed by Leibovitz?”

“Of course photographed by Leibovitz.”

Had I been in your employ, I realized, that sentence would have been followed by please prepare, Jane, and try to avoid wasting my time. “Jeez, sounds made in heaven. What do I tell Fair Spouse?”

“What do you mean? I’m losing you.”

“Wait! Back up the subway steps.” Pause till signal improves—just barely. “There. If Peebidee is the new Peggy Guggenheim of The L Word, the 21st century Natalie Barney and Ann Morgan and Winaretta Singer rolled into one, how will Gay Jane Austen control her unfulfilled desire to reproduce the Great Lesbian ideal from generation to generation? I can’t unmarry. That’s my destiny too. My great generational concern. What do I tell Fair Spouse?”

“She was at the same shoot, dear. She’s with Shane. Oh shit, look at the time, must dash!”

I just stare at the piece of paper. Peebidee, Peebidee, when will I ever be born in the right century?

Wendy Pepper Interview

Feb 20

February 5, 2006. Wendy Pepper’s living room is a work in progress. Enticing picture books are stacked six and seven high on the hardwood floors, acting as makeshift coffee tables. Mannequins stand around blithely in various states of undress. Solar power drives a lighting experiment. The afternoon sunlight bends through moving crystals and dances on the floor, walls and ceiling. An impromptu guest has just left and taken her adult-theme conversation with her. The children return. My four year-old daughter and I are staring at two lipstick red futon chairs that look like Wendy adopted them after an “Austin Powers” film shoot.

Wendy Pepper (Studies my daughter studying her chairs.) Pippa, what do you think of the red?

Pippa I love it!

WP (Relieved) So I chose the right color. (Turns to Suzanne.) From overstock.com. I knew I needed chairs for my salon pad here. I didn’t want to get, you know, actual furniture. Because it’s too permanent. What I love about this overstock.com is, you can’t get what you want! So when I saw the re shag acrylic I was like “buy it, baby—because those things need homes, OK?”

Suzanne Stroh To the rescue!

WP I am going to provide the loving home for these, these—creations. And when I get my [fake yule] logs, right? This is gonna be, like, the major crash pad of all time.

SS You have great saloniste instincts. Where else can you come in Middleburg and your first conversation is about why sexual predators always carry Tums? I mean what was that about?

WP (Laughs.) Absolutely, OK? We are open to all things here.

SS Were you always an intellectual?

WP No. But I was a rebel. I was out of place in polite society, but now I find at this point in my life, that’s what I like to create in my work, pieces that are well-thought out and feminine, with refinement.

SS Gentle society had its way with you.

WP I rebelled against it, now I’m trying to reintroduce it to the world.

SS Do you remember the turning point?

WP In college. I love travel. I went to Nepal as a student of the Tibetan language [for three and a half months], and it was there that I first responded to fiber arts, away from all the influences of this society. Fashion is the most intriguing expression of cultural interaction. It’s omnipresent.

SS: So give me the download on Project Runway. How you heard about the show, that whole thing, and why you think they picked you. Because they pilloried you in the end.

WP Of course. In their wildest dreams I don’t think they imagined they would find a contestant like me. To find a woman in her forties, the mother of a young child, I mean what could be more powerful, who is totally opinionated, competent—

SS: And you were trained.

WP Actually I wasn’t trained. I was trained as an anthropologist but I didn’t go to fashion school. I had nothing to do with the New York industry. I apprenticed. I found individual people to teach me every single thing that I know how to do. It took me twenty years. And now I can do every single aspect of it.

Everyone associated fashion with this complete disconnect from real life. And I was this critical link, one of the main reasons [Bravo] gathered the wide viewership that they did. People were like “holy shit, that’s close to what it would be like if I went on that show!”

I was married to Robert. [Robert Downing, still her husband, although they now live apart—but still within a few miles of one another.] I was making dresses in my basement for local clientele. I had put together a couple of fashion shows. I was really struggling with the call to develop my career based on my limitations—small town, small child, that’s my first responsibility—to create the environment to raise my child in. But I had this desire to make high fashion clothing. So I was struggling with that conflict.

SS But your clothes were incredibly appealing. I mean women wore them to society balls in Washington.

WP I make beautiful clothes. There was no question about my ability. But in fashion, especially, if you’re not in New York, if you’re not in L.A., that says that you are irrelevant.

So in a way, back to Project Runway, it was very compelling to viewers. Here was somebody who has made a choice to NOT do the mainstream thing in their career. And yet it was obvious that I was good. So for all the people watching the show who are good at what they do, yet because of choices they’ve made they’re not right in the center of whatever career they’re in—I touched off a nerve across all kinds of career paths. Any woman who has chosen family over her career could relate. That’s why I made a strong statement. I wasn’t just a fashion designer. If you look at a lot of people on the show [Project Runway’s first season]—take Austin Scarlett, he’s a fashionista, dramatic, kind of artistic in his personality.

But me, I was like a lot of women over twenty with things like mortgages, and children, and divorces, and all these things that come up. You have this worry: can I continue to function in a career with the young people coming up behind me saying: “Well you’re old. So you have nothing to offer.” So I stood up on that show and said, “Well you’re young. And I really don’t know what YOU have to offer.” And I think it was brilliant that they [the producers] would have the nerve to turn that around!

I’m not about the youth-centered culture. I’m about: If you have a couple of miles under your belt, I’d much rather be working with you. So I think they couldn’t have anticipated that tension. And then of course they exploited it.

SS Tell me about your audition.

WP I flew down to Miami, right, with six dresses. Finley stayed with her dad [Wendy’s former husband, who also lives nearby]. My dad met me. He was the official dress holder. I stood in line with all these incredibly flamboyant sort of young, hotsie-tootsies. It was very intimidating. I had that pit-of-the-stomach feeling like, “Oh my God, there’s no way I can compete with the flamboyance.”

Fashion’s an awkward fit for me because I’m all about serving my client. I’ve always been envisioning something worn on the person I’m designing for, as opposed to creating something myself. I redede into the background, which is what I think a proper designer should do. But now it’s about: how much attention can you draw to yourself?

So standing there in line with hundreds of people, I mean one was more crazy than the next, and I remember thinking, “this is not going to go well at all.” Well the one thing I can do very well is speak. So when they asked me what I wanted to do on the show, it was great.

SS When they said why do you want to be on the show.

WP I said I wanted to be the next great American fashion designer. They kicked me upstairs immediately. They were intrigued that I’d obviously done my research, and I didn’t feel the need to gild that lily.

SS What was it like upstairs?

WP They wanted to see how you worked with the camera. That first experience of going up there, those lights that are on you! And you’re miked. You have no idea how you’re going to respond to something like that, whether you’re going to become very quiet or whatever. It was profound. I was like, “good to go!” I was very comfortable.

(At that moment, Pippa enters in a wild fairy creation of her and Finley’s design using scraps from Wendy’s workbench. There is a problem with Pippa’s stilettos. She wants to strap them on.)

WP Come here, dear. Can I fix it for you? Yesterday, Pippa, we had a sewing machine here for children.

P Wow. (Turns to Suzanne) Can I go out in this dress?

WP What if we brought people in here to you?

(This seems to satisfy my daughter, and off she goes in search of same-age company.)

SS What was in your audition video?

WP Well first of all it was total shit because I didn’t have a video camera. I had 24 hours to make my video after I got chosen in Miami. So I had to fly back here, borrow a video camera. I got a couple friends to come out [from Washington.] Once a year there’s a Civil War re-enactment at Mount Zion Church about ten miles down the road. And they were doing it that day. And they’re very particular.

SS Do you remember that, growing up at Oatlands [the historic estate nearby]?

WP My mother grew up there, so no, I had never seen it. I asked them to relax their rules and let me film “my models walking through your re-enactment because this will give my video local character.” I said “I feel like it’s really important that I establish that I’m from Virginia, I work in Virginia, and my esthetic emanates from the geography, the feel and the history.” They were real purists over there, but I begged. And pleaded. And we ended up filming these wonderful vignettes of modern feminine women walking among these Colonial women.

In one of the most powerful scenes, I had an African American model barefoot on a horse, and she’s showing off her dress to a Caucasian woman in Colonial dress, and they’re interacting in this really interesting way that of course reverses the power equation if you look at it historically. Because I’m interested in the role of fashion in defining women in society and history. Like you never see me in the video except tangentially until the very last frame. I just didn’t make it about me. I made it about my work. Tim Gunn [one of the producers] later told me that was one of the reasons they chose me. They let me know about a week before filming started in August.

SS Which was basically like you had to completely organize your life in a week.

WP Right.

SS For three weeks?

WP Three and a half weeks—if you lasted.

SS So your mom, [your husband and your former husband]—everybody ponied up to support you in this last-minute career opportunity?

WP Everybody was there for me, but the most important person was my mother: “Just leave Finley with me, and if you go for two days or if you go for three and a half weeks, that’s fine with me.” That was the permission I needed. Which was: this fashion business is not going to adversely affect a five year-old. I could call Finley once a day, that was my one phone call. I’d get on the phone, (jokes) Finley would be like, “I ain’t got time for you.” It’s like the only contact I have with the outside world and I’m like: “No! Come back!” (Laughs.)

SS When did you start to get a feeling that they were playing you? I mean they made you up, right?

WP No. I have a trickster side to my personality. I thought, I’m gonna play with this a little bit. I’m gonna stretch a few assumptions. I’m gonna throw in a couple of things that I know, from a visual standpoint, are gonna be curious. Like people aren’t gonna know exactly what I’m up to.

And then when I got there and I felt this incredible concern, among other people, about how they were coming across, my response was to do weird things. Why would you wear a lab coat, peroxide your hair and wear really ugly makeup to forward your career? Well that’s exactly why I did it.

SS So those were all your own choices.

WP Yes.

SS To stand out? It’s like an evolving strategy.

WP Yes.

SS Did you watch any reality TV before this?

WP I had watched Survivor. I definitely had a strategy. And my strategy was, “you’re not gonna know where the hell I’m coming from.”

SS “I’m gonna mix you up.”

WP Totally. I need to mix it up almost every day cause I need to keep my competitors off balance.
(The conversation turns to the business plan Wendy is writing to attract capital partners in her fashion brand, Wendy Pepper.)

SS What were you saying a month ago about your tag line? It’s “Timeless.”

WP It’s “Timeless” for a reason. I would like to design a piece of women’s clothing in such a way that she could gain or lose ten pounds, because that is pretty much a reality for most women I know, and certainly for me. I would like to know that a piece of clothing could endure the test of my natural habits. I would respond to a designer who would acknowledge that that was normal! I feel that any designer who works for women has to understand that. Our lives are in constant flux.

SS In my area of special interest, outdoor technical clothing and gear, the growth of sales has been driven by this. I mean how do you think Descente has been selling one-piece ski suits for fifteen years? Because they have fabric innovation every year. And these are real innovations.

WP I’ve given the textile chemist [I’m working with] a list of properties that I think would be ideal for this product. Fitness wear has exploded, borrowing from fashion. You now have designer sportswear. For those of us who are not athletes, we face the same challenges every day. Temperature control. Humidity. Wicking. Give and stretch memory. Wash and wear. I’m going to borrow from athletic wear because our general lives are very athletic in nature.

SS Are you going to have to give up your high-end, private-label-Wendy-Pepper self to pursue the mass market if your plan gets you the funding you seek?

WP No, I’m going to do them both.

END OF INTERVIEW

Wendy Pepper Profile

Feb 20

Walk into Wendy Pepper’s house any day of the week, and if she’s not being a mom to her second-grader, she’s usually in the studio working. Local kids are down there learning to cut patterns and sew buttonholes. With four or five projects happening at once, Wendy works best in barely controlled chaos. But up here in the salon, it’s quiet except for the early music that pulsates from Wendy’s computer.

Quiet?

Wait five minutes. See who walks through the door. Chances are, it will be somebody you were not expecting to see. Wendy’s posse is made up of folks from all walks of life, all creeds and all colors. Even better chances are, you’ve probably never had a deep discussion with this person before. But all that is about to change as soon as Wendy mounts the stairs and puts the kettle on.

We’re lucky, in our small country town of Middleburg, Virginia, to have a first class saloniste in Wendy Pepper, the talented fashion designer. Without altering her productivity, the divorced working mother makes space every day for one-of-a-kind, high-level creative interactions. How does she do it?

The first set of requirements is not what you’d think, I’ve realized after observing Wendy for a few years. It’s not that you have to love people. Love people, love a party: that’s a hostess. To be a saloniste, you have to be artistically hungry, mentally flexible and mostly open.

To keep such a vibrant forum going day after day, you have to see the value in seizing the social moment. You have to be able to stop whatever art you are making with no notice, and still be civil to guests. You have to be able to pick up where you left off and keep going without complaint. Every interruption is an opportunity to you, the saloniste.

As a hermetic writer, I find this almost impossible, and a painter friend agrees. Our immersion patterns may be drastically different from artists working in high-energy, collaborative media. I hope these columns will shed light on that, and on other strange but true facts about living a creative life.

Whatever the reason, when I finish writing for the day, especially when I’m writing fiction, I feel like I’m slowly surfacing from the depths of my inner life—and there’s no way I’m making tea for unannounced visitors. That’s why I go to Wendy’s for conversation.

One famous writer once said of another, paying a high compliment, “her high art is her full life.” Wendy’s genius is that she can do both high art and full life so easily.

Wendy Pepper was born in Dayton, Ohio, the middle of three children. Her father was a Wayerhaeuser executive. The family moved to Washington, where Wendy’s mother grew up, when Wendy was six. She attended Potomac School in McLean, Virginia, then Madeira before Barnard College. Marriage to her elementary school sweetheart ended shortly after the birth of their daughter. Wendy’s former husband lives nearby. They share custody of Finley. Both parents remarried.

Thoughtful, curious, empathic and hilarious, she’s nothing like the ruthless bitch portrayed in 1994 on “Project Runway,” where Wendy showed her mettle by winning the two most commercial challenges, but somehow didn’t walk away with the $100,000 first prize after showing an amazing début collection in Bryant Park. Tim Gunn, Heidi Klum and the other Bravo producers and judges made Wendy out, wrongly, to be self-absorbed and socially clueless. She is, however, provocative.

Friends come ready to take on the full array of uncensored topics. Artists come for inspiration and encouragement. Everyone comes for understanding, for a healing dose of laughter. Everyone leaves full of new ideas, new questions, new projects. What more can you ask of great conversation?

Turns out—and it’s not what’d you’d expect from a fashion designer—Wendy is a serious thinker on a variety of subjects. She has a well-earned anthropology degree from Columbia University and a history of going straight to the source for inspiration. As you will read in our interview, she devised a 20-year self-study program of apprenticeship that included a stint in silk dyeing in Nepal. Today she works with a fabric technologist “to design from the ground up” by developing new fabrics “that have particular properties at the chemistry level.” She travels regularly to New York to speak on panels and broadcast as a fashion journalist. Last year she won $75,000 for charity on “Celebrity Poker” after studying the game for only a month.

I routinely see some pretty daunting four-inch tomes lying open on the sitting room sofa beside the empty teacup at nine in the morning. I once asked Wendy if she had always been an intellectual, and she told me no. “But I was a rebel.” She gets up at five to run/walk a mile or two, to wrap up the previous day’s business and to work on her web site. By the time I see her, dropping off our kids at school, Wendy’s been so engrossed in her morning that she’s forgotten to shower or change clothes. Wendy is a casual dresser by default. In the matter of spectacles, we vie for the quirky spinster title. But with her willowy framed and her angular movements, Wendy is unmistakably feminine. She projects a deep awareness that true beauty lies within. In any encounter, as Natalie Barney did in Paris in the 1920s, Wendy Pepper leads with the mind. She has somehow stayed hip after completely digesting the history and business of fashion, right up to the present moment, which she knows by heart the way some people know their sports statistics.

Make no mistake about Wendy’s drive to build a fashion brand from Middleburg—a daunting task, let’s face it—but she fervently believes, like Balenciaga, that the role of ladies fashion is to serve and beautify and empower the woman, not to turn her into a cultural statement about the here and now or some stylistic billboard for the next greatest thing.

If she makes it big in fashion, according to plan, Wendy Pepper will definitely become a high priest of the runway.

Maybe that explains how, when I met Wendy Pepper, she was waiting serenely for the birth of her daughter. She called me “dear” and I loved it, even though we’re the same age. When I turned to her in tears for something to wear to my cousin’s wedding, while hugely pregnant in my last trimester, Wendy made me feel like the loveliest woman in the room.

Seven years later, our girls are pals just like their moms. Wendy appears, by permission, as the character Wendy Pepper in my novel quintet Tabou. I’ve interviewed Wendy several times in the brutal aftermath of her appearance on “Project Runway,” when Wendy lost about 40 pounds over the devastating career effects of being demonized on Reality TV. This year she rebounded with an astounding, cohesive collection. My favorite piece is the cocktail maternity dress just bursting with color. You can see it (and buy it) on Wendy’s web site, www.wendypepper.com.

Read on from our unpublished interviews.

“I’m not about the youth-centered culture. Fashion’s an awkward fit for me because I’m all about serving my client. I recede into the background, which is what I think a proper designer should do.”

Wendy Pepper’s Column

Feb 20

I start my day walking with my friends. We talk about the dreams we had the night before and the plans we’ve made for the day to come. I find this ritual both invigorating and comforting. The camaraderie is as dependable as the weather is fickle.

Creativity is a mercurial cohort, and I find that free-association conversation right before the break of day ushers in the energy I need to face the challenges ahead.

My friend Saskia drops her child off at the bus and stops in to announce it’s teatime a whole hour since we parted from our daybreak reverie. Invariably, we have no problem picking up where we left off and I can never refuse her fresh cranberry bread and a steaming kettle. I respond well to good natured ribbing; I am sometimes afraid to commit to my projects. Often, the tangible results don’t match my theoretical intention, and I fear that moment of reckoning that renders me helpless to jump in and begin. Saskia usually gives me some “goal” to work for by noon. It’s an artificial deadline, but it promises the prize of a stroll through town to see our friends Punkin and Kevin.

Saskia’s close observation of my moods (and my penchant for elaborate excuses) has allowed her to subtly coax out a willingness to risk disappointment on my part. This often results in me breaking through barriers.

The afternoon slips away in creative exploration. I am particularly fond of the light quality as it streams through my living room window. I can lose myself in my myriad of books. Literature has always played a critical role in conjuring up inspiration for a new collection.

The fall of night in the country brings a silence I depend on to filter out the images stored up from the frenetic day.

Rediscovered Classic—Verna: USO Girl

Jul 20
Northern Virginia | June/July-2006
1978, Director Ron Maxwell

After laughter and sniffles were heard in all the right places during the April 8 screening of this forgotten WW2 fable, the credits rolled and the house lights came up. An audience member thanked Ron Maxwell, the filmmaker, then asked him to contrast today’s audience with viewers’ reactions back in 1978, when Verna: USO Girl launched the careers of Cissy Spacek and William Hurt.

The award-winning Northern Virginia based director of Gods and Generals (2003) said “No, thank YOU. Verna went right into [TV on] Great Performances,” Maxwell explained, “and so tonight is only the second time I’ve watched this film with an audience. The only other time was at the cast and crew screening in 1977.”

That’s a pity. There’s something magical and enduring in this bittersweet comedy about show business, celebrity—and wartime. With Zelig-like precision Maxwell injects 1970s actors back into 40-year-old newsreel footage of B-list acting troupes sent overseas to entertain U.S. troops in Belgium. The doomed love story sparkles with the same chemistry as The Purple Rose of Cairo. Cissy Spacek wins you over with her portrayal of a no-talent hack who, paradoxically, is bursting with star quality. She mesmerizes the troops she entertains even as she sings off-key and bungles her dance steps. “Her next movie was Coal Miner’s Daughter,” Maxwell told the festival audience, “so we all know that Cissy Spacek can really sing.”

But Spacek was Maxwell’s second choice for the role. “A month before shooting, the script was [up to] until she’s killed. We had no ending. We were getting set to fly over to Germany to shoot on a 14-day schedule. It was just crazy. Then Mary Beth Hurt, who we’d cast in the lead, left the production to do Interiors for Woody Allen. Mary Beth’s husband, Bill Hurt, was just out of Juilliard and this would be his first film performance. His agent called me a minute later and said, ‘Do you still want Bill?’ ”

If Verna won’t screen at a repertory theatre near you any time soon, you can buy it on Amazon.

UP CLOSE: RICHARD SQUIRES

Jul 20
Northern Virginia | June/July-2006
Crazy Like a Fox Screens at Cannes and alongside Cruise

With a lifetime of study and professional credits in writing, directing and composing music, Richard Squires knew the score. “Two million dollars is not a lot of money,” he told Piedmont Film Festival goers in Warrenton, in April (see story, next page). Not if you’re producing a feature film to compete with Hollywood. When Crazy Like a Fox opened at screens in New York and Washington, D.C. on May 5, it went head to head with Mission: Impossible, a film that cost $100 million to make. Compare Squires’ total marketing budget of less than $50,000 with MI’s $150 million quest for viewers. The odds of “breaking through” for such a small movie made Squires’ business plan the real mission impossible.

Then he signed on with Media Luna, the Cologne, Germany-based foreign film distributor. Next thing the Middleburg filmmaker knew, his first feature had been placed at Cannes, the world’s most prestigious film festival, on the French Riviera the last ten days of May.

The film’s themes—land speculation, eradication of history as it’s “written” on the landscape, residential development and how all of these things enhance or threaten both society and the environment—are far-reaching.

But the story is unique to Northern Virginia.

Nat Banks (played by Emmy nominee Roger Rees) lives on Virginia land that was farmed by Lord Fairfax in a house called Greenwood, where the framers of the Constitution hatched their Revolutionary ideas. He may have inherited a fourth-generation housekeeper, a priceless wardrobe of military regalia and a heap of tall tales, but the well’s dry. This funny snippet of dialog between Banks and his cousin says it all:

COUSIN: Hey, isn’t that Granddad’s sport coat?
BANKS: Yeah, I think so.
COUSIN: Well lookee here, I got the pants!

To pay the bills Banks reluctantly shakes on a deal with the big-city buyer to preserve the plantation house and the working farm. When he’s handed an eviction notice ten seconds after settlement, Banks goes berserk. His wife Amy (played by two-time Academy Award nominee Mary McDonnell) complies with the law and moves into a rental with their two teenagers. But not Banks. In an act of civil disobedience that’s part Henry David Thoreau and part Huck Finn, Nat Banks dons his Confederate battle garb, grabs his sword and hides out in a cave down by the river. Squatting on his former property and living off the land, Banks gets crazier by the day, reciting Shakespeare and hatching vague plans to take back his swindled legacy.

Meanwhile, back in civilization, the new owners face steep opposition from locals who side with the Bankses. Doing everything they can to prevent Greenwood from being subdivided, neighbors risk their jobs and even break the law themselves to prevent what they see as gross injustice.

Squires based his tale on the life of Nat Morison, the eccentric gentleman farmer” of western Loudon’s historic Welbourne plantation. (Not to be confused with Old Welbourne, which is younger, quips Squires, who once lived at Welbourne.) What audiences make of Crazy Like a Foxhalf a world away at the Cannes Film Festival will have everything to do with the film’s commercial success.

So what’s his advice to Northern Virginia filmmakers? Make no mistake, says Richard Squires, “to get into this business you have to have a strong will and a willingness to take risks.” In other words, you’ve got to be crazy. Crazy like a fox.